There are thousand of posts about handmade Goodyear and Mckay shoes on websites and big forum. However, not everyone knows it and not everyone who knows it really knows it. Namidori will explain in our way for those who doesn't know or understand about Goodyear and Blake structure.
1. Blake structure
As we see in this picture : Blake is sewing from the inside of the insole direct to the outsole, this method has less stage, easy to sew, thin sole, neat and lighter but hard to resole and easy to be wet if doesn't sew from outside.
(Side cute of a Blake)
Different on Mckay shoes
****Reconization: insole sew is visible, neat sole, thinner than Goodyear
2. Goodyear structure
This kind of handmade shoes is more complicated: First is Welt stitching, toepuff and insole and the next stage is welt stitching to the outsole, because of the complicated method and handmde so Goodyear shoes normally have high price. Different from Blake, Goodyear shoes have thicker sole (welt and outsole), the sole is a bit longer than the toepuff (this part cannot be grinding because it will damage the stitch part), This method help the shoes waterproof and easy to resole
Mặt cắt ngang cấu trúc giày Goodyear
*** Reconization: inside sew is unvisible, welt stitching is visible (sometimes this is not correct because there are fake welts), sole this thicker, longer, lower sew is neater than Blake
By Namidori handmade Shoes